|Open source 3D printers, the society can use for rapid prototyping ideas.|
If you have never heard of the RepRap project, you should head over to their wiki and see what it is all about. The society currently has one working printer, with one new one on the way. which have been named Geff and Bruce. We also have a depriciated printer called woody, he is enjoying retirement. The printers provide a cheap and (reasonably) quick way for the society to rapid prototype ideas and aid with the development of projects. This page will contain all the details for you to be able to use the printers, provide the current status of the printers as well as tips and tricks.
Bruce (Prusa) - Nearly Finshed
Was not completed last year due to exams and other stuff getting in the way.
Geff (Mendal Max) - Finished and in full working order.
All the software that is required has been placed on the nearest computer to Geff under the following directory:
I have installed Printrun :
We are using Slic3r as our slicing program at the moment (ver 9.5).
The printers are currently working with the Marlin firmware.
The printer is using Sangiunololu electronics, with Pololu Drivers.
How to use the Printers
Firstly, the printers should only be used after a consultation with Joshua Elsdon or Oskar Weigel. This is to check that your designs are compatible with printing, as well as to help us plan our stock of raw plastic. Once you have been approved follow these instructions:
Load your model to slic3r(current), found in the Reprap directory of the computer near the printer.
make sure all 3 settings tabs within slic3r have ICRS black default (or the relevant colour). then on the platter tab export the g-code to a known location.
Load pronterface. Also found within the Reprap directory. Set the bed temperature to 120, and the heater to 245. the bed will take about 15mins to heat up, use this time to load your G-code into pronterface and inspect the diagram of the gcode for potential problems.
When up to temperature, extrude 10-15mm of plastic (a button below the round dial in pronterface) and remove the waste with pliers from the nozzle.
Press the print button, and cover the printer with the bubble wrap hood. (this is NOT optional) You can veiw the print through the window, eave covered until the model is finished (or failed).
If a print fails before the end, press pause in pronterface and then set the bed temperature to 0. Allow to cool below 60. THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL. Premature removal will damage the print surface.
Tips and Tricks
- If you want to do a scan of something to either be replicated or as reference for your design, ReconstructMe is totally awesome. (OpenCL enabled graphics card pretty much a requirement). Generates a .ply file, use any mesh editor of your choice that supports it. (Sketch-up can't handle the polygon density even if you convert it)
Non Standard Changes
I had to edit the following gcc file in order to get the Teacup firmware to compile, the old file is backed up to math.h.old:
I added the following to line 426:
this solves a definition conflict with the Sanguino code.
I have drawn up a slightly modified design of the following hot end which I intend to attach to this cold end or to this cold end. Which cold end depends on how I feel/can convince someone to laser cut it for me. The hot end assembly can be seen in the beautiful CAD model I have rendered. I have sourced all the required materials for the extruder, so when the workshop comes back into order I can manufacture everything and test it works. This design should be reliable and more importantly transferable to Bruce.
https://kd85.com/makerbot.html -- Fairly cheap PLA available from this guy.